Construction – M.Gemi
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The Language of Shoemaking
When we’re talking about generations-old Italian techniques or the different parts of a shoe, we might use some unfamiliar terms. So if you’ve ever wondered what we mean by “seamless upper” or exactly what a “vamp” is, this is your guide to the language of shoemaking.
Gommini Sole
“Gommini” means “little rubber peg” in Italian and is most often used to refer to the unique textured sole synonymous with driving moccasins.
Hidden Wedge
Though they look like flats, The Gia and The Danza both feature a discreet 20mm wedge designed to give you the much-needed arch support you need for all-day comfort.
Italian Loafer Construction
The Italian loafers are defined by their slim silhouettes, lightweight feel, and hand-stitched finishes. The soft—often unstructured—uppers are attached directly to the sole, eliminating the heavy welt seen on British- or American-style loafers.
Lining
The inner layer of the shoe that enhances comfort, moisture-wicking, and/or insulation. We seek out the softest leathers for our linings to ensure they feel great against your skin.
Last
The last is the form that every shoe is built around. Shaped like a foot and traditionally carved from wood, it determines the fit, silhouette, and proportions of the final design—from the curve of the arch to the contour of the toe.
Sachetto Construction
Our artisans Rocco and Giuseppe specialize in this traditional Italian technique. The term “sacchetto” means “little bag” and refers to how the soft, leather lining is sewn first, creating a bag-like shape that’s then turned inside out and attached to the upper. Because the lining is all one piece of leather and there are no visible seams, the shoe fits and feels like a glove.
Slotted Sandals
The southern coast of Italy—including Positano and Capri—is known for this traditional sandal construction. The artisans weave a sandal’s leather straps through small slots they’ve hand cut in the leather sole. Then, they attach the straps in between the two layers of the sole. At the small workshops still making custom sandals, this technique helps the artisan give every customer a made-for-them fit.
Seamless Uppers
If you look at the silhouettes of The Esatto and The Valeria, you’ll notice that they’re one piece of leather—uninterrupted by seams. Instead of traditional stitching, the leather uppers are expertly molded to the last and bonded to the soft lining by hand. The result is a sleek, elegant design that also reduces the risk of irritation and blisters (no stitching to rub against your skin). It’s a hands-on process that’s rarely done anymore, but our artisans Pasquale and Giovanni are continuing their family’s legacy of using this generations-old technique to craft some of the most comfortable heels you’ll ever wear.
True Moccasin Construction
In this traditional technique, one piece of leather is cut to form the sides and sole of the driving mocassin, ensuring the softness and flexibility the style is known for. Norina and her small team then hand stitch the vamp to the bottom of the shoe and singe away any loose threads with a small flame.
Vamp
The section of the upper that extends from the toes up to the top part of the foot.
Upper
The portion of a shoe that covers the top and sides of the foot and attaches to the sole.
Welt
A strip of leather sewn along the perimeter of a shoe’s outsole, connecting it to the upper. The welt is both functional and decorative—reinforcing durability while giving a refined, finished look. A quality leather welt makes it easier for a cobbler to resole the shoe, extending its wearability.
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